We have arrived at Island Peak Base Camp

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David Armstrong peers out of his tent at Island Peak Base Camp.  Paul A's tent is behind Dave's, with Darren's tent behind that.  The dining tent is the blue tent on the right, the cook tent the blue one on the left.  Cas's tent is behind the dining tent & Paul B's is out of shot to the right.  Photo Paul Adler.Local time: 17:40 14 Nov 2007
Location: Island Peak BC
Altitude: 5110m
Weather: 3C inside my tent now, but about to get a lot colder. Snowing lightly.

Hi, It's Paul Adler coming to you from Island Peak base camp. I must say it feels very familiar to be trying to write with cold fingers, balancing the pda on my sleeping bag, inside a tent pitched on rock & ice as it's only 6 months since I was doing this on Everest.

It was cold last night in Chhukkung, with everyone's water bottles freezing up in their bedrooms overnight. A few centimeters of snow fell last night.

The walk today
It was a pretty gentle walk to base camp today past a glacier and over lots of rocky moraine. We had clear skies and not much wind, so it was very pleasant, with excellent views of the valley and in particular Ama Dablam.

Island Peak Base Camp
The base camp is on the Eastern side of the mountain, between it and a huge pile of glacial moraine. We can't actually see the summit from base camp. The camp area is long and narrow, about 80m x 20m. There are about 15 tents here at base camp. Two toilets have been erected, however Cas reported that they were in poor condition (he made some comment about people's terrible aim). We have since erected our own toilet tent, so we will only have ourselves to blame if there is any bad aiming. Most people are sitting inside their tents, because it's too cold to go outside so it looks deserted apart from the sounds of Sherpas talking amongst each other. We have a cook with two assistants, a cooking tent and a dining tent. Each of us have our own North Face Ve25 tents, so we are pretty well setup here. A heater would be a nice addition for the dining tent, but it's not really worth it for the few days we will be here. I am guessing that dinner (6pm) will be a short affair given the cold.

Health
Our health is critical now, and unfortunately most of us have a cold, with runny noses and some coughs, but as long as it doesn't develop further into a chest infections and impair our breathing, we should be fine.

Weather
A climber we spoke to in base camp today told us that it was minus 16C in her tent the night before and last night on her climb of Island Peak she saw -25C on her thermometer. This is extremely cold weather so we will need to be very careful to avoid frostbite. A lot of climbers seem to be going for the summit from base camp, but we will stick with our plan to use a high camp. This will mean we can start later in the morning (about 4:30am) so we won't have to spend so much time in the cold. We need to leave early to give us enough time to get up the mountain and down again before the weather gets unstable and the wind increases. I have noticed this seems to be occurring about midday.

Next few days
Tomorrow is a rest day and then weather permitting the next day we will move up to high camp. We will check all our gear tomorrow and practice with the ropes, so that everyone knows exactly what they need to do on summit night.

From a cold base camp, Paul Adler.

Your Messages

Hi Stefano
Thank you for yesterdays message. It was very well written and funny. Somehow it seems to me that Ebay is the way forward in the future...getting up at 5 am and making 45 pounds doesn't sound that brill to me. Had a shower 2 days ago which was nice. We are now at basecamp and tonight it will be about -15 in our tent. Think of me when u are cuddled up in your nice warm bed.
Love and kisses
Daddy Brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

Messages

message for cas

Hi Cassra
hope all is well and you hit the peak today with your friends. Saw grazia and the boys this weekend and all is well.
Grazia is booking the panto for this year, should be fun. Val is well but complaining about his weight but then he does eat alot..... so do I but life is too short. Paige and Co are great and the kitchen is coming on wonderfully. AShe has already planned her menu for all of us when we go.
Look after yourself and come back in one piece.....
The boys did great at school, very clever and adorable jsut like their........... mothe..... parents!
baci
Isa, Val and Franci

The home stretch

Paul B,

I can't believe you are nearly there!

Good luck for the next few days.

You will be great.

Deb

It's show time...

High five!

Thanks for answering questions regarding other teams and weather, Paul A. The 5 ON ISLAND PEAK team seems ready to "get her done" so good luck!

Climb safe, climb strong and I will add...stay warm!
MC

Hi David

Just read the lastest update and it does not sound like my idea of a tropical holiday! Love to all and take good care of your health.
Love Mum and Rob xxx

Nearly there...

Hi Paul B

Camping amongst the rocks in the freezing cold doesn't sound the most comfortable - I hope you manage some sleep before your big ascent on Island Peak! Really impressed with what you've achieved so far...

The very best of luck tomorrow - thinking of you,

Charlie x

Go Guys

Thankgod it wasnt that cold when i was there ! - seems like conditions are getting worse ( cold wise and wind) hope u guys have a clear sky and good conditions when attempt the summit. All the best boys !

kade

I know the feeling

Hi Paul and you others,
My son and I camped in that exact spot and summited Island Peak 26 April 2005.
Do your Sherpas climb down into the glacier bottom beside you to get ice for water?
I hope she sky is clear for you on top - the views are great.
Take care and enjoy.
Mick S in Geelong Victoria Aus

Greetings Five Island Peakers...Hope Much is Well...

58 PST San Francisco, California - -- The Coast Guard was rocked by new developments Wednesday in the wake of the huge San Francisco Bay oil spill as the agency shoved aside its Bay Area disaster commander, began a wide-ranging probe of its actions after the accident and admitted it had mishandled drug tests for crew members of the ship that struck the Bay Bridge.
Capt. William Uberti, who led the initial response after the Cosco Busan struck a bridge tower on Nov. 7 and dumped 58,000 gallons of bunker fuel, was replaced by Capt. Paul Gugg, an experienced specialist in oil disasters.
The commander of the 11th Coast Guard District, Rear Adm. Craig Bone, stopped short of saying Uberti was fired. Bone said he decided on the replacement "considering the magnitude of this response operation, the level of public interest, and problems I have identified related to the initial spill response communications and coordination."
Uberti has been criticized for waiting four hours to inform the public that the spill was larger than 140 gallons and for allowing the gunky fuel to foul more than 30 beaches in the bay and along the ocean coastline. He will return to his usual duty as commander of the San Francisco-area Coast Guard operations.
Gugg, 49, has crafted spill regulations and response plans in Washington, D.C., and helped design emergency tactics after the catastrophic 1989 Exxon Valdez spill in Alaska.
"I have had the opportunity to be briefed by the team here, and I've been very impressed with what's taken place recently," Gugg said at a press briefing at the response command center on Treasure Island. "I've seen some great strategically and tactically deployed equipment."
The cost of the spill, counting cleanup efforts and damage to the Bay Bridge, marinas, beaches, boats and individuals could exceed $100 million, said Marilyn Raia, a San Francisco maritime lawyer who is representing insurance companies in the crisis.
As the Coast Guard's new commander overseeing the spill was announced in California, Coast Guard commandant Adm. Thad Allen underwent a grilling in Congress and announced that he has initiated an unusually "comprehensive review" of the Coast Guard's actions after the accident.
The review's investigators will include representatives from the city of San Francisco, the state Office of Emergency Services, the Pacific Merchant Shipping Association, the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration and the Coast Guard. The collective has been ordered to deliver a report to Allen within 90 days.
"While we would not normally initiate an ISPR (Incident Specific Preparedness Review) review during the course of an ongoing cleanup operation, I have determined that due to the severity of this incident and the potential benefits in identifying areas to improve response coordination and communication in the future, it is imperative that we get this review under way as quickly as possible," Allen said.
His comments came at a Senate briefing where California Sens. Barbara Boxer and Dianne Feinstein took turns querying federal officials over the spill response. Feinstein pressed Allen about whether there was a "muddled" response for lack of a central leader coordinating all the actions of cleanup and response crews.
Under federal rules, the Coast Guard takes the lead in responding to a spill but must act in partnership with the entity responsible for the spill and top state officials. Allen said he believes the split leadership often works well but was not effective in responding to last week's spill.
Also topmost among the concerns at the Washington briefing were revelations by the Coast Guard that it and the owners of the Cosco Busan freighter failed to ensure that members of the ship's crew were tested for drugs within 32 hours after the ship hit the bridge as required by federal regulations.
"If they didn't follow the protocol, and let's say people were keeling over with drugs and they got away with it, there ought to be a penalty for that - and we'll never know," Boxer said.
Coast Guard officials said Wednesday that the ship's operators did not test some of the relevant crew members - those with duties potentially linking them to the crash - for drugs until 53 hours after the incident.
It is the responsibility of the owner and operator of a vessel to test crew members immediately after an incident, but the Coast Guard is responsible for making sure the testing rules are strictly followed.
The results of the drugs tests for the Cosco Busan crew members are not yet back from the lab, and it's not clear yet if the delay could have undermined the efficacy of the tests.
Alcohol tests also were apparently done slightly late, but not as tardy as the drug assessments. Coast Guard officials say they will investigate to see what might have gone wrong.
"It certainly shows the operator missed a crucial detail," said Lt. Commander Tony Guild, who oversees inspections, investigations and analysts for the Coast Guard's Western region.
Guild said a Coast Guard casualty investigator was told Friday by an agent for the ship's owner, Regal Stone Ltd., that the Cosco Busan crew had not yet been tested for drugs.
"(The agent) said, 'We only tested the master for drugs, so the Coast Guard investigating officer said, 'You need to test everybody,' " Guild said. The master is the ship's captain, Mao Cai Sun.
Guild said the Coast Guard investigator moved quickly to order the drug tests, but acknowledged that the agency bore some responsibility for failing to get the tests done on time.
The alcohol testing for pilot John Cota and the Cosco Busan's crew also apparently took place late, but Coast Guard officials say that discrepancy was not as serious - and may not ultimately violate any regulations.
Cota was tested for alcohol at 10:29 a.m. Nov. 7, two hours and two minutes after the ship hit the bridge tower, and then for drugs at 10:35 a.m. Both tests, conducted by the San Francisco Bar Pilots Association, came back negative, Guild said.
Then, between 11:24 a.m. and 11:30 a.m., the crew of the ship's bridge and chief engineer were tested for alcohol. Those tests have come back negative.
The alcohol tests were supposed to be conducted within two hours, but federal regulations allow an exception to delay testing when the safety of the vessel is still in question. The Cosco Busan was being moved to two different anchorages after the ship spilled its oil at 8:27 a.m., according to several accounts.
"In this particular case, it's not serious at all," Guild said of the belated alcohol tests.
A spokesman for Regal Stone Ltd. said that he was unfamiliar with the latest information, but that the last word he had from the Coast Guard was that the tests were done properly.
Meanwhile, 53 ships were working the waters on cleanup duty Wednesday while 1,517 people attacked the oil on beaches and in lagoons. More than 12,745 gallons of oil has been collected from the water so far, the Coast Guard reported. An additional 580 gallons have been dispersed naturally, and 4,060 gallons of oil has evaporated.
More than 1,500 birds have been injured or killed by oil.

Good luck

Hi Paul A, Cas and the rest of the team
It sounds very cold to me up there so take care and use your good judgement if it's too bad. The lady trekkers had their dinner last night at "The Base Camp" restaurant in Hawthorn. it was very nice and the decor was superior to that at the real Base Camp but the company was just the same except missing a couple of people of course - also the conditions were far better with the day temperature of 25.
We are actually expecting 35 next week so it's a big difference to where you are!! On the weekend Fiona is going to Blairgowrie and will spend Sat night with us - we'll go out somewhere nice for her birthday. She can also view the new driveway and extensions.
Enjoy yourselves but take care. We look forward to seeing you back soon.
Love Marg

Cas

Good luck my love. Have a safe climb.
From you know who?

Cold

Hi Adler, sounds cold. Don't freeze.

Chris G

Hi Cas, Still following your

Hi Cas,
Still following your trip and does sound great. Can,t believe you didnt sell it properly to me when you were trying to persuade me to go. All you had to say was you don,t have to wash or shave for a couple of weeks and you know I woulda gone.Anyway good luck witht the cold I,m off to play golf and its still 22 here. Hurry up and get the picture of you and a yak while i can still tell the difference.
Plate
Tony

It's so great of you guys to

It's so great of you guys to go up there. I wish I could join such a party (you don't have any girls with you) but I'm currently having treatment and this might stop me from climbing that high. Good luck to you all!

Very impressive

I'm very impressed that you guys were able to handle the cold so well and avoid becoming sick. This is a great testament to the human spirit and proves that once someone has their mind set to something they can pull it off. Good work and good show guys, maybe in the near future I can be part of the party.
Narconon VistaBay