Today we had an easy four hour walk out of Namche up to 3800m via the brilliant path that often gives one of the most famous mountain views in the world...that of Ama Dablam, and including Everest herself, peaking over the top of the intervening Lhotse wall.
We didn't have much of that today, as some of us were a bit late getting up, so we didn't set out until 9.30, which on a rather cloudy day meant we were likely to be frustrated. It was still a fine outing, the initial steep ascent out of the village being followed by an undulating traverse towards the lodges at Kenjoma, where we took a snack. When I was here last time, this particular lodge was extending to build a bakery and new sitting area, both of which I took advantage of today! We will probably pass this way tomorrow, when hopefully we will enjoy the stunning views in earlier and clearer light. The lodge owner, Tashi, was very friendly, and spoke warmly of Hillary, who has done so much for the area of her birth. We later passed through Khumjung, and saw the marvelous school that he helped to build, which I had read about as a youngster. A piece of history. We returned in an increasingly heavy snow shower, and were glad to get back to our lodge as it turned wetter.

The curious effects of altitude

As I plodded up the steep path above Namche today, I thought about how the effects of altitude seem to surprise me every time I go up high, despite umpteen trips. Even at this sort of height one feels strangely weary, sluggish and breathless on quite modest upslopes, though feeling more like normal at rest or on going downhill. With the passing of the weeks ahead, and with carefully controlled ascent, the body makes amazing adjustments to it's normal workings, and one hopes to feel more able to move at speeds nearer to normal. During this period of acclimatisation many people feel headachey, nausea, dizziness and general lethargy. If one persists in ascending despite significant warning symptoms (headache or marked breathlessness in particular) then one risks pretty severe acute mountain sickness (AMS), including the life-threatening high altitude pulmonary oedema (HAPE) and/or high altitude cerebral oedema (HACE). The latter is not to confused with the more common low altitude cerebral oedema seen after a typical night out with the surgery staff, though many of the symptoms are similar! The high altitude illness is often fatal however (the low altitude version just feels like it's going to be).
It is because of this that we try to walk in so gradually, and later can come back down so much quicker. Anyone can get bad altitude illness, even when following a careful programme, or one they've previously followed without trouble. Having a cold or similar respiratory infection seems to increase the risk, hence my annoyance with this current cold of mine. I've been lucky over the years to avoid getting altitude illness, but I certainly get plenty of symptoms, especially going off most food. I'm already struggling with that now, hence I tend to lose loads of weight on longer trips (never from where I'd like to lose it from). The resting pulse goes up, with a thumping palpitation feeling often, and sleep is often poor. Though one improves in many ways with time, we keep on going higher and higher, which is why these expeditions to higher altitudes are so gruelling. We pay a heavy price for those staggering views and that sense of achievement we all seem to be seeking.
In general, it's much harder to function at altitude than you would expect. But it can be fantastic too. I seem to keep coming back anyhow.

Message for SUSAN from Ray, typed by his fair hand:

Hi Susan, Thanks for the message.  Things are going very well, everyone is feeling good.  The weather has turned a bit for the worse but what can you expect up here?  Things have changed a lot since last here but as that was 8 years ago what should I expect.  See you in 8ish weeks  Ray

P.S.  I just realised people have maybe been sending e-mail to me c/o ice8000clara.co.uk but as Henry not even at Base-camp yet it won't be working I imagine....sorry! They may surface in a week or so when we all roll in. Grrrr!