I write this at 4730m, at Chukkung, almost at the height of Mont Blanc. We walked up steadily for just two hours again today, but I think we all felt the altitude. There was less talking than usual, put it that way. I am hoping to try Mont Blanc in september, with a lot less acclimatising than we have enjoyed here, which helps me to see how hard that will be. Hmmmm.
The views from here are fantastic. Picture book. It feels a privilege to be here, in good health and spirit, and I'm feeling pretty good about my condition right now. Though the walking is getting more tiring, I can't pretend that this part of the trip is anything but a holiday really. It will hurt much, much more above Base-camp.

What a PLONKER!

This afternoon I was trying to see if I could get reception on the fancy radio I've borrowed, ready for the "big match" between Arsenal and my team Liverpool, which I referred to yesterday. For the first time it worked, only for me to discover that the match was LAST night, which those of you in the know must have realised?! More embarassing than sad, but at least we won. I suspect I missed great match, which I hope my son(s) will describe for me soon on e-mail at BC. Stevie G, what a player!

Food in Nepal

I said I'd say a bit about this today, so I better had. Some people love the food out here, and eat lots. I have to say I struggle, though that's partly an altitude thing for me. I have a much smaller appetite up here, almost regardless of what's put in front of me. But the staple meal is dhal bat, a rice/lentil/mild curry mixture which I can barely stomach nowadays after years of trying, increasingly, to force it down when feeling off-colour, or even nauseous at altitude. There are other options, mainly meatless (which some say is just as well), so lots of rice (fried mainly), chapati, porridge, eggs, eggs, and er... eggs too. I do struggle, but so far this time I'm trying harder to finish meals. There are occasional chocolate bars...bliss. Personally, I've enjoyed the odd yak-steak or bit of scraggy chicken without obvious reaction, but it's for carnivores only, I accept.
I expect to lose weight again, typically about 2 stone, or 12 kilos, but will hope it's a bit less this time as it probably affects my performance up on the hill...apart from making me resemble Gollum from Lord of the Rings! When I was younger, the long Himalayan nights in my tents were often plagued by sex fantasies, but nowadays I'm sad to admit that food dominates...very conclusively too. Age is sometimes a terrible thing.

Messages

I thank everyone who writes to me, and remind you all that it's getting impractical to respond to everyone at this time. Having this site has made the experience very different to my past trips, definitely for the better, but it brings it's own stresses too, and remember the Chinese pressure on Nepal may yet curtail my reporting soon.
Sue E, glad you sound so involved. Wait until you're 49 you cheeky ****. I expect things to get more emotional with time, in all sorts of ways, hopefully mostly good.
Pat and Derek, so good to hear you are watching too, I guess Norman let you know, as he must've done last time. I hope there's a better outcome for us all this year, but nothing taken for granted as you know. I'm not the young man you will remember me as!
Lynnfrom Florida, there's lots to say about stomach bugs, but I'll be brief here. You say you had bad diarrhoea in the past without being ill as such, so in those circumstances I'd take loperamide or codeine to try and stop the flow. I have ciproflloxacin and metronidazole as anti-biotics for severe problems, such as bad pains, fever or blood. Of course, prevention is the main goal, and I've done well myself over the years by avoiding uncooked fruit or veg, and especially so-called washed salad. I used to use iodine a lot, bottled water where possible, or boiled, but currently I'm a fan of the "Steripen", a UV device, battery-operated, which is quick, kills more bugs of all types than iodine, leaves no taste, but costs maybe $120. I love mine, and it means I'm drinking lots more than usual. Incidentally, 1 litre bottles of water on the Everest trail cost over one pound a time, which soon mounts up! I nearly forgot, I'm a huge believer in those antiseptic hand gels, used everytime you've been to the toilet(it's touching the doors more than anything, think about it!), before every meal and so on. They have made a big difference.
Go for it Lynn, most people are fine, with a little thought, and maybe judicious use of medicine.
Finally, Alyson, who has helped me make my back manageable so far, thanks for all that. I gave up the rower, and currently even golf, and so far this trip, it's doing well!

Music for the day

I enjoyed walking along today to " Poisoned Prince" by Amy MacDonald. She's a special talent, and has many great songs of her own on her first, and only, album, "This is the Life". x