My Journey to Everest Base Camp ...page 7

Wed, 02/14/2007 - 04:33 — Pumori
A Reinvigorated Spirit

This one sums up the sheer joy of being on this trek! Here I am at the Cho La pass (17,782 ft.), rejoicing at achieving another high point after reaching My Everest. (And yes, the sky really was that blue!) Photo courtesy of Kim Bannister. Although not the highest point in elevation, it certainly was the climactic point for me in terms of interest and achievement.  Crossing the icy Cho La pass, reaching the summit of Gokyo Ri, and everything else after this would be gravy.  But standing on the rocks hewn from the greatest mountain on Earth was what I'd come here for.  This was my dream come true. This was My Everest.

It was so much more than I ever dreamed it would be.  I felt younger, stronger, more vibrant, more confident, and more alive.  I proved to myself that I could do almost anything if I wanted it badly enough.  I'd explored what is surely the most beautiful place in the world, seen the astonishing magnificence of the highest mountains, and enjoyed the hospitality of the charming and unforgettable Sherpa people.

It was impossible to wipe the grin off my face.  I imagined this trek would be a “sufferfest," but that wasn't the case at all.  Although the Norwegians groused occasionally about the cold, ironically, it scarcely bothered me.  (I only used six of the 30 handwarmers I had brought with me.)  I greatly enjoyed their company, though.  And Lhakpa had been a delightful and faithful companion.  I don't think I could've made it without his support.  Despite the language barrier, we chatted and laughed continuously, often re-telling the same jokes to great amusement.  Kim had taken superb care of us, always choosing good lodges and providing us with unexpected amenities like a French press coffee maker and delicious treats for dessert.  Lhakpa Dorji, our trendy Sherpa guide, wore a bandana and listened to Nepali hip hop on his iPod, but proved to be a knowledgeable and competent tour guide, always sporting an infectious smile.  We made a terrific team together, and I would miss them dearly.

By the time we got back to Kathmandu I felt physically stronger than I've ever felt in my life.  My thighs were bulging with "Schwarzenegger quads," and although I only lost five pounds on the three-week trek, I dropped two pant sizes!  So, besides living my dream, this turned out to be the "World's Highest Fat Farm", and I achieved results beyond my imagination.  Who knew you could build muscle at 55 and get buff in only three weeks?

Alas, despite my efforts at the gym, those extraordinary muscles disappeared almost as quickly as they formed, but the grin is still planted firmly in place.  I fell in love with the Himalayas, and the next time I take a trip, I'm going back to the Khumbu.

OK, I warned you.  I'm obsessed.

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Messages

My dream too

Ann — Sat, 03/10/2007 - 15:43

Hi Shanda, I cried when I read your post because my husband and I recently postponed a trek to BC that would have been May 3-18 2007. We simply decided we were not ready physically, and we are concerned about the altitude. Living in kentucky the travel time is considerable, but in the long run worth it. I have no medical problems and feel so inspired that if you can do it with asthma than I can also achieve my goal. The chance of meeting climbers along the way and just the amazing mix of people is another reason we want to try it. Thanks for confirming my belief that I can do it!
Ann

Such an inspiring article! I

TheDude — Tue, 02/24/2009 - 20:10

Such an inspiring article! I hope to one day do this myself.

- Randy Spelling

Identical passion

sarah — Sat, 03/10/2007 - 20:15

Shanda, I identifed with you SO MUCH, because I became "obsessed" with Everest after reading Jon Krakauer's "Into Thin Air". I was looking for a new passion after having been into running for several years, doing marathons, etc. I was like Peggy Lee - "is that all there is" until I read his book. It lit my fire! I started backpacking (pretending I was on Everest) and started reading everything I could get my hands on regarding Everest and when I ran out of Everest books, then just any adventure book! From the book, I had a vivid picture of what Lukla, Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, Lobuche, and EBC looked like. I read the book three times before going to Everest myself. I never dreamed that I would actually get a chance to go, but finally, amazingly, I DID get the chance - when I was 63 and not at all sure that my fitness level would be adequate.
I was wide-eyed at every stop. When I saw that slanted runway in Lulka, I felt like I had been there many times before. Phakding to Namche "kicked my butt" and I was just like you - with the effort it took to walk up and down stairs in Namche, I thought - there is no way I'm going to be able to get to EBC! Every new place that we reached, I considered a gift! When we got to Gorek Shep, I was BEAT and did not have the energy to scale Kala Patar. Besides, I wanted to be strong for the trek to EBC the next day. I knew I could not see Everest but I had my heart set on seeing EBC and especially the Khumbu icefall! What a magic day, Oct. 8, '03 when my eyes first glimpsed Base Camp! I only stayed there about an hour (weather was moving in) before going on to Lobuche, but it was a magic time!
Thanks for giving me the pleasure of trekking there again through reading your story!

Thanks for writing!

Pumori — Fri, 03/30/2007 - 03:00

Ann and Sarah,

I am uplifted by the excitement of others who share the same passion and interest in trekking. I put off going for six years because I lacked confidence. Even on the trek, I didn't believe I'd make it to EBC, but I just wanted to go as far as I could go. The truth is, you never know. There are marathon runners who succumb to altitude sickness at 12,000 feet and there are couch potatoes who have no problems at all. I hate to link myself to the latter category, but in reality I'm probably a lot more like them. If I can do it, almost anyone can. Just give yourself plenty of time. The more rest days, the better.

Sarah, you're an inspiration! I'm glad you made EBC. I want to go back and do the trek again someday. The Khumbu has a way of capturing your heart.

Happy trekking, and namaste!

Shanda (Pumori)

amazing

kierand — Sat, 05/05/2007 - 09:59

Shanda
Namaste... Tashi Delek... hello
My son Kieran has been following Paul Adlers climb and I came across your heart warming trek
I so want to climb now... my heart aches just wanting it
I am in good health for 44 just very unfit...
I am now going to put a plan into action now ....base camp would be wonderful but one step at a time
Thank you so much for giving me confidence
your amazing
How has your asthma been since?

Suse

If I can do it anyone can!

Pumori — Fri, 05/11/2007 - 14:21

Thanks for writing, Suse. The best advice I can give anyone is to get your legs in shape, as the steep uphill and downhill takes its toll. (Up and down stairs or hiking with a weighted pack would be good training.) The second thing (and this may be the most important of all) is to trek SLOWLY. There are dozens of trekking companies out there, and I was lucky to pick Project Himalaya. They were so much more flexible than a big company. We trekked from village to village, only occasionally hiking more than 3 hours a day. It took us 11 days to get to Everest Base Camp, while most companies do it in 7-8. However, none of our group suffered from altitude sickness, which is a testament to taking your time. Try to allow at least three weeks on the trek -- you won't regret it! That gives you time for side trips, like Gokyo, which is well worth seeing!

As for my asthma, I don't have any problems as long as I keep using Advair. But if I forget and miss a dose, I can feel the tightness in my lungs pretty quickly.

I think it's great that you and Kieran are following Paul's climb. Reading the blogs of Everest climbers has become a daily ritual for me every spring, and this site is the first one I visit. I'm rooting for Paul and Pat Hickey and I think they both have a good chance of making the summit.

Namaste, and best of luck to you!
Shanda

Shanda...

wmpopper — Sat, 05/05/2007 - 20:02

Many thanks for your words. I am sure that they are inspiration to all who read them, myself included. My 89 year old mother uses Advair as well to assist with her breathing and can appreciate how dedicated, motivated and strong you are / have become, to have achieved and experienced what you have. Continued adventures on the trail and mountains...
Peace and Good Health..
wp

Thanks

Pumori — Fri, 05/11/2007 - 14:26

Thanks, WP. I've enjoyed reading your posts to the climbers on this site. I'm encouraged to know that a long life is possible for an asthmatic, and I'm glad your mother is finding similar relief with Advair. Best of luck to you both!

Namaste,
Shanda

Interesting!

Sandra D — Sun, 05/13/2007 - 11:40

Shanda, your story is fascinating. It interests me so much that I now want to do the trek! Did you fly directly to Kathmandu or did you stop in India first? Were logistics difficult?

Sandra

Logistics

Pumori — Tue, 05/15/2007 - 02:42

Hi Sandra,

My 20-hour flight was from San Francisco to Bangkok (with a brief stop in Tokyo). Then I had an overnight layover in Bangkok before my flight to Kathmandu. I was scared to be in Bangkok by myself, but many people assured me it's quite safe there.

The logistics were all handled by Project Himalaya, my trekking company. It was worth it, in my opinion, to hire them just so that I wouldn't have to think about all the logistics. Kim Bannister was my trekking guide, and she took care of EVERYTHING. She brought a French press coffee maker and made us real coffee every morning, plus she had a vast assortment of delicious teas. (You learn to drink a LOT of tea while trekking -- a good way to stay hydrated.) While waiting for dinner, she'd have snacks to tide us over, and pulled out an array of cookies for dessert. All nice touches that were appreciated by us weary & hungry travelers.

We never had reservations, which gave us the freedom to customize the trek, but if there were big groups on the trail and it looked like the lodges might fill up quickly, Kim would send our Nepali guide Lhakpa ahead to secure our rooms. I was worried before the trek that we'd be sleeping in dorms, but I always had a comfortable room to myself. The lodging, meals, and all the tea you can drink are included, in addition to those extra touches. I can't praise Kim and Project Himalaya enough! They're well known and respected by the village lodge owners, so I always felt like we got special treatment.

If you do the trek, be sure to allow plenty of time -- 18 to 21 days at least. The longer the better. That way you're not in a hurry when acclimatizing, and you'll be glad you had time to see the sights. Good luck to you, and thanks for writing!

Shanda

Trek to EBC

Mary Clare Reinhardt — Tue, 05/15/2007 - 06:59

Hi Shanda

Well, I finally read your story; it has been on my "to read" list! First off, congratulations on making your dream come true against all odds. You are truly an inspiration for so many. I hope you do make it back to the Himalayas; something tells me you will. I, like so many of us "adventurists", have a STRONG desire to trek in this region. My plan is to trek the Annapurna Circuit. I followed my brother's climb of Everest in 2005. He summited on June 2nd. It was so exciting; I believe that it renewed my desire to climb some tall mountains while I still have the stamina and strength (which is requiring a lot of training)! I also wanted to comment on how wonderfully well you write! I was riveted to your story.

I wish you the best in all your future adventures,
MC

Wow!

Pumori — Wed, 05/16/2007 - 05:15

Thanks, MC! Who is your brother and which company did he climb with? (If you don't want to post here, you can email me by clicking on "Pumori," my handle.) I remember the 2005 season because the weather window was incredibly late that year. It must have been so thrilling (and nerve-wracking) to follow his climb! Wow, that's great.

I'm surprised that you would pick the Annapurna Circuit over the Everest trek, given your connection. My trekking companions just returned from the AC trek and I got the impression they liked the Khumbu better, although I'm sure anywhere you go in the Himalayas is stunning. I guess because I'm such an Everest junkie I wanted to see the places I'd heard and read so much about.

Thanks for writing!

Shanda

AC trek vs EBC trek

Mary Clare Reinhardt — Thu, 05/17/2007 - 04:13

My brother is John Christiana and he climbed with 7 summits-club from the north side. It was unbelievably exciting to follow his climb. He spent 2 nights at C-3 (8300m) before his summit bid. Due to radio problems we did not hear any news for approx. 36 hours. Also, John and teammates were low on oxygen due to the extra night spent at C-3. That was unnerving! In Dec. 2006 he summited Mt. Vinson thus completing his 7 summit's project. I am proud of him.

The reason I want to do the AC trek is because it is the trek less traveled and I have heard you see many more mountains. I would thoroughly enjoy either trek and I came very close to rescheduling my climb of Kili to trek with Fiona and co. to EBC. I decided to stick with my original plan and I am glad that I did. I am so excited to set foot on Kilimanjaro and hopefully see the glaciers at the top while they are still there! But I do plan to get to the Himalaya's in the near future! Maybe we can get a small group together from this great web-site!

Cheers,
MC  

That's very cool about your

Pumori — Thu, 05/17/2007 - 14:18

That's very cool about your brother. What an achievement!

Actually, the Annapurna trek is much more heavily traveled than the trek to EBC, although both are popular. The AC trek doesn't go as high, so many people choose it for that reason. I've heard that October is insane on either trek, because the weather is more dependably clear. But except for the one day when we passed through Tengboche, the weather was just lovely in the Khumbu in late March/April. There were only two nights when the lodges were full; otherwise, it never seemed crowded. A couple times we even had the lodge to ourselves. But meeting other trekkers from all over the world was fun and interesting. Thank goodness nearly everyone speaks some English!

Anyway, I know you will have a fabulous trip and climb. Looking forward to hearing all about it!

Shanda

Good advice

ryanhall43 — Mon, 10/06/2008 - 21:19

Being that I've been out of shape for awhile I think I will take my time when I finally make the trek out to Everest. I'm curious if one of those aerobic steps would do the trick in place of walking up and down stairs. It could be done comfortably at home while wearing a heavy backpack. I know I want to be in shape when I finally make the trek and am hoping that will suffice so I don't have to pay for a Gold's Gym membership. I recently graduated from Narconon Vista Bay where I was able to kick my drug habit and start pursuing my goals and dreams in life. One of them is climbing Everest.

considering...

zzzxtreme — Thu, 12/31/2009 - 05:53

hi pumori thanks for writing. I'm from malaysia, hot and humid country and also an asthmatic. I inhale salbutomal/ventolin just maybe thrice a month. I feel in love with mountains when I visit Huangshan in China. Although my friend said Huangshan was more difficult than EBC, he said the "lack of oxygen" and altitude often affect trekkers. I'm reluctant to try EBC because I believe the cold might get me wheezing. Did u get wheezing a lot while you where there? and did the inhalers helped ?