mera peak, nepal - what boots shall i get?

Wed, 04/07/2010 - 13:44 — captainben

can you recommend a boot for both mera peak trek and summit or will i need two boots? i ve been looking at the, la sportiva nepal evo gtx. will these be warm enough at the summit? and if i need another pair for the lower altitude, what do you recommend?

many thanks,

ben

Climbers sought for Manaslu expedition ›

La Sportiva Nepal good for Mera

Paul Adler — Wed, 04/07/2010 - 23:43

Hi Ben, It depends on the time of year that you are planning on climbing Mera and also if you feel the cold. Assuming that you are climbing in the normal period (the months of April, May, September, October or early November), then Nepal GTX will be fine. You'll want other boots for the trek into Mera, but above base camp these will be fine.
Regards, Paul.

la sportiva nepal good for mera??

captainben — Sun, 04/11/2010 - 14:59

thanks for your reply, paul.

just another question on this. i ve been back into snow and rock and the chap tells me there only good for 4000m, but as i said to him, i climbed to kalapatar a few years back in inadequte footwear, and although i was cold it was bearable. i would not repeat that, dont get me wrong.

he says that the nepal extreme, without gore tex are a warmer boot as the insulation regs around gore tex do not allow for the same insulation. so do i comprimise the gore tex for a warmer boot, but what happens if the snow is deep on the path to summit mera? or should i really be looking at somthing plastic?

many thanks again for your help on this one.

cheers,

ben

Boots for Mera II

Paul Adler — Mon, 04/12/2010 - 04:30

Hi Ben,
Kala patar is no comparison with Mera (1000m lower, no snow or ice), but your example does serve to make a good point about using altitude as a measure of the suitability of equipment. Altitude for the most part should have little bearing on the choice of equipment.
When choosing boots, you want to find the warmest and lightest pair that you can afford. Weight of boots is very important and it's worth paying a bit more to save a few hundred grams. Some people reckon that 1 kg on your feet is worth as much as 10kg on your back. But to get back to your question, I think that either boot will be fine, assuming you are climbing in the normal season and not in Winter.
You'll definitely want gaiters on your boots to stop the snow coming in over the top if its deep (assuming the boots you buy don't have integrated gaiters). I have used Berghaus Yeti gaiters for years and they are excellent. Hard to put onto the boot initially, but you leave them on once this is done.
BTW when you are in a shop, ask to talk to someone who has done a bit of mountaineering. Ask them what they have done too, just to make sure that you are talking to someone with experience and not just someone who has read a book. I used to work in a gear shop and we were always happy to refer customers to the assistant with the most relevant experience. Often the customer's knew more than us!
Regards, Paul.

rab 1100 - to warm for mera peak??

captainben — Sun, 04/11/2010 - 15:57

there is a rab 1100 going cheap on ebay. would it be to warm for mera peak expedition?

Send me a link to the bag

Paul Adler — Mon, 04/12/2010 - 04:07

Send me a link to it, but yes I think it will be too warm. I assume it has 1100g of fill.

Boots with Good Grip/Braking

boat.reflections — Tue, 08/24/2010 - 08:25

It's doing my head in trying to find a replacement boot for a 4 week trip around Gokyo Lakes, EBC and finishing with Island Peak (I have Hi Tec now with no grip at all). I have limited access locally and need to do a trip to the city to purchase and trying to narrow down the field. What would be a really good boot with grip for the terrain around the mountains (and warm)! Any suggestions very much appreciated! I have access to Scarpa, Millet, Raichle so far. Thanks. Fiona

Boots for Gokyo, EBC, Island Peak

Paul Adler — Thu, 08/26/2010 - 00:11

Hi Fiona,

I have done this exact trek before (Gokyo, EBC, Island Peak) and it's great. I am sure you'll have a lot of fun. When are you going?

Regarding boots, it can be a little tricky to get boots that will be suitable for the trek, warm enough for the cold that you'll experience on the summit morning of Island Peak and also stiff enough to take a crampon. I climbed Island Peak in November wearing Asolo AFS 8000 boots and I was cold for a little bit, so don't underestimate the temperatures you could experience.

I suggest that people get themselves a good pair of hiking boots (preferably leather with a rubber rand around the front to protect against skuffing) and then buy or hire some proper mountaineering boots for the climb.

If you have a full day in Kathmandu, you can easily hire or buy good mountaineering boots in Thamel and crampons. Prices are very good too and they are the genuine article. I have seen plenty of stock of Millet and also La Sportiva Nepal Evo. There are only a few places that sell the boots, so just ask at the shops and you will be directed where to go if they can't help you. BTW, I wouldn't recommend the Asolo AFS 8000 as it's very heavy. La Sportiva Nepal EVO is a good choice.

As for hiking boots, get them here so you can wear them in a bit. Fiona (my wife) has Raichle boots and they have been great for her, although the soles came off the first pair we bought after about 20 days of hiking in Australia, but luckily they were replaced under warranty. I have just bought myself a new pair of Merrel full leather boots in USA, but I haven't used them yet. My previous boots were Zamberlan and they were great.

Good luck.

Boots for Gokyo, EBC, Island Peak

boat.reflections — Thu, 08/26/2010 - 09:00

Thanks so much Paul for replying. I leave 1 November and away for the month. It's such an amazing place for so many reasons so obviously I can't wait! I was in the Goyko/EBC area last October so assuming it will be colder in November - plus camping at Island Peak. I think it's just sinking in how cold it will be on the mountain at altitude so this site's been fantastic research value for me.

Yes, need to get the boots now to wear in and it means a flight to get them which is a nuisance. I did see a pair of leather Raichle's in Sydney so might try those. Haven't seen Zamberlan so will look for those as well.

Thanks again. Want to be as prepared as possible and quality boots and warmth are up there on my list! Fiona

Order online?

Paul Adler — Thu, 08/26/2010 - 10:39

What about just taking a chance and ordering the hiking boots online? You could talk to a shop and order a couple of sizes and then send back the ones you don't want.

Boots on line

boat.reflections — Mon, 08/30/2010 - 06:30

Really wanted to try them on first as they're mostly in uk sizes - but also to test the grip. Just today tried a pair of full leather Asolos TPS 535 and Asolo Powermatic 350. Seemed to be good so will look at their reviews. Otherwise will try the Raichles.