May 8
Everest BC
Tomorrow we head up to Camp 2, it will be good to be on the mountain again! I talked to several people yesterday, including a key conversation with my wife Sarah, and realize that while I have to be patient, I also need to stay focused on my final goal, which is to summit. We still have at least 3 weeks left to climb. Yesterday I walked up to Pumori ABC at 5,700 m. I lucked out with the cloud cover and snow squalls and was able to see the north ridge of Everest, along with Lhotse and Nuptse, spectacular! As I was taking the scene in, an avalanche cloud passed beside me, about 300 m away. Pumori is a mountain in motion. The news we heard this morning suggests that the Chinese finally summited today. Hopefully this is true. I guess with all the rumours we have heard over the last few weeks, we have become a bit skeptical. This morning we saw a plane circling the summit of Everest, so we hope this news is true.
So, we will go up to camp 2 (6,500 m) tomorrow and then up to camp 3 (7,200 m) to sleep. This trip will be our third through the icefall and our final one before our summit attempt. We won't sleep above camp 3 before our summit trip as the benefits of acclimatizing above camp 3 are outweighed by the deterioration that our bodies will experience above 7,200 m. Each day while we rest at base camp, rock slides and snow avalanches come down around us. I am used to this now. The glacier we are camped on continues to melt underneath us. We have had to move several tents already, small streams run at midday. The weather has changed in the last few days, with snow most afternoons. We did have a very warm April, with lots of beautiful, sunny days. We shall see how this affects the trail established by the ice doctors through the icefall in the next few weeks, (warmer temperatures mean more melting and more movement.) I have done the usual base camp fare over the last week; had a basic shower, washed my clothes in a basin of water, eaten lots, slept lots, made minor repairs to gear, read lots, listened to the latest gossip, gone for walks, watched episodes of Lost on a 6 by 8 inch DVD screen, did my core and stretching routine each day...the usual. We did have another party (to pass the time) a few days ago with 25 climbers in attendance, lots of rum punch and dancing, Free the E was the theme.
I am eager to get back up in the western Cwm and climb up the Lhotse face to camp 3. It will be a tremendous relief to be climbing again.
Climb on!
Angus
Messages
Summit de Gus
Visitor — Thu, 05/08/2008 - 11:42Climb on Gus and keep those spirits up...we are all sending positive vibes your way.....The Lew Crew Mt. Albert Ontario I am keeping Mom Posted on the news . They are off to the Cottage as the weather is getting warmer here too....Love and best wishes to you Scott and all the climbers..
Good luck - keep the goal in focus!
Visitor — Thu, 05/08/2008 - 15:09I know you'll keep your focus Angus - you have worked so hard to get this far! I think of you every day and hope you have safe and successful travels to Camps 2 and 3! Keep on climbin'!!!
Love A.
Hey Murray
Visitor — Thu, 05/08/2008 - 18:29Best of luck on your journey. The RLC crowd cheering for you!
Way to Be Angus...
wmpopper — Thu, 05/08/2008 - 18:53Best of conditions for you.
WP
Good luck, Angus!
Mary Clare Reinhardt — Fri, 05/09/2008 - 07:04Hi Angus~
You said it exactly right; stay focused on your task at hand. Wishing you a safe ascent to C-2 and then C-3. Hope you will acclimatize well and get back down to BC safely for your final rest before the big push. Enjoy the views and embrace the challenges that will come your way.
Climb on!
m.c. reinhardt
All systems go!
geoffshaw — Fri, 05/09/2008 - 12:21Just read the great news this morning that the Chinese have summited! Now it's your turn! Geoff and Kiyomi
Enjoy 3 If it's possible!
Visitor — Sat, 05/10/2008 - 16:29Hey Angus,
I have been writing to you via Scott and trust you have been getting a few messages of thoughts and support. Hope your are on your way now to camp 3. Sounds like it might be a difficult night with little sleep once there. It must have been hard to keep your focus and motivation with so much time spent at BC but now you are on your way!
John and I think about you and Scott every day. We are sending you tons of support, positive vibes and love!
Barb
PS - who knew during all those crazy summer days at Suck-a-paw that one day we would be cheering you on up Everest - Go Angus Go!
Camp 3
rmcintosh — Sun, 05/11/2008 - 17:59Angus, I hope you made it and the weather held. I t must be marvellous looking up Lhotse and to the left Everest. From where you are it is a game of inches, but they are easier to overcome than yards. Go for it!
Roy
Hi from Rosseau
Visitor — Mon, 05/12/2008 - 12:30Nature Bob to Angus: Angus rocks!
Hey Coach, My parents are visiting from Fernie and we're thinking a lot about you. Good luck at Camp 3. I hope you are keeping well and not losing too many brain cells. We're still preparing to blow out of Rosseau and head to the great white northwest of Sask. See you soon. Seriously, take care and stay focussed on being well.
Love ya,
Kary
Good Luck Angus!
Caitlin — Wed, 05/14/2008 - 03:41I can't believe you are actually doing it! I can't wait to catch up with you when you get back- I live in Vancouver now, so I should be able to catch a ferry at some point to see you.
Good luck, stay safe, and enjoy every minute of it!
Cheers
Caitlin Cooper
Best wishes from NZ
cbunge — Wed, 05/14/2008 - 09:30Well Done Angus, Good to hear (through Scott's page) that you are safe and strong. Colin & Alex
Message from Mum Jean and Don
Visitor — Wed, 05/14/2008 - 12:47Thanks for your phone message and the lovely flowers you sent for Mother's Day!!!Sorry to miss your call. Jean talked to Sarah last Sunday and she is fine.Very Busy prepping for the triathelon.
All of us are excited about your progress and await the next report. We wish you a Safe and Successful journey.
Love form All of your Family and Friends....Mum and Dad
Tracking your progress
Visitor — Wed, 05/14/2008 - 12:49Zoya and Katie and the Faddy crew are watching in Britain along with the Canuck Connection in Toronto /Calgary/Victoria/and Mt. Albert. Scott is doing a great job updating us on your progress with his informative posts. Wishing you success and much love to all .....The MurLew and Faddy Clans
You go buddy~!
Visitor — Wed, 05/14/2008 - 15:40Angus, keep on truckin my friend. I will be in KAT on the 29th of May getting ready to head out to G2 on the 8th or 9th. I hope to see you all for some good times.
Free the E!
Chris Szymiec
an "excellent adventure"
carolyncampbell — Fri, 05/16/2008 - 19:37Angus - Carolyn Campbell here in K-W (also Bob, Bronwyn, Kennedy and Martha Stevens). Kate provided me with your website information so we could follow along with your very excellent adventure on Everest. What a thrill to hear that you are on your way to the top of the world! Know that the Waterloo force is with you and keeping you in our thoughts and prayers. Here's hoping they also have an Everest BC bar along side the bakery so you can toast your amazing accomplishment with a beer as well as another slice of apple pie! Cheers from all of us.