May 20 South Col 7900m Summit Col. Time: 2:00pm.
We have made it to the South Col. One of the most, if not the most famous camp in the world.
Last night at camp 3 was a very good night. It was quite warn in our tent with the three of us. I did not even zip my sleeping bag all the way. I slept pretty well, but woke frequently. We were up at 4:30am to start to pack and get hot water for breakfast. Everything always takes longer than we think. We did not set off at 5am as planned, but were on the trail just after 6am.
We all had our down suits on, but it was not that cold. I could have gone with my standard climbing suit. We were also wearing oxygen for the first time.
Right out of camp is a 10m vertical ice wall. After I got to the top of that I thought the oxygen was a load of hooey. But that was not a fair test. I had not warmed up yet. I gasped for air and tore the mask off my face feeling I was suffocating. This is, of course, the wrong thing to do. I put the mask back one and took several deep breaths. That did the trick and I kept climbing.
I found that the oxygen was amazing, I was running at a flow of 1L per minute and it was like magic. Not only did it give me the oxygen my body was craving, but it also helped to reduce my cough. As I breathed into my mask it would warm and moisten the air I breathed in. This soothed my throat. Without the constant coughing, I was much stronger and faster.
The route up the remainder of the Lhotse face was unrelenting. Up, up, up, at a constant angle of 45-60 degrees. Near the top of the face we made a big traverse to the left. Looking across the face it did not look
too bad. At the end of this traverse is the yellow band; a prominent band of limestone that bisects the face.
The yellow band looked daunting, but turned out to be not too bad. About 45 feet of crampons scrapping on rock and I was on top.
After some more upward gain we had another traverse. This one much longer than the last. Over an hour later I was still crossing it. Distances are deceiving when you are moving so slow. At the end of this traverse I came to the Geneva Spur. This is a large band of black rock that is the final barrier to the South Col.
I took a long rest at the bottom of the spur and let Ryan, Angus, and Al catch up. I had been in the lead most of the day and had not seen them for hours. By the time they got there I was getting cold. I did a quick check in and hit the trail. Angus did not break for long and was soon behind me.
The Geneva Spur was pretty straight forward and we were on the top in about 40 minutes.
At the top of the Geneva Spur I lifted my head and was struck with the sight of Everest's upper pyramid. It almost knocked me off balance it was such a powerful sight. Somewhere up there there is a Sherpa team fixing line to the South Summit. I was just told by Kala that they are continuing to fix all the way to the summit if possible.
From here it was just a long traverse on broken rock to the South Col and Camp 4
Camp 4 is situated on a large sort of flat expanse of broken rock. The first thing you notice as you walk into camp is the vast amount of garbage left over from past expeditions. Most of the garbage consists of ruined tents, broken tent poles, fuel canisters, batteries, and food packages. There are no used oxygen bottles as the retrieve a deposit when brought down.
We located our tent and moved in. My Sherpa Kala is in the tent with us and has been feeding us drinks. I am a little tired from the climb, but feel surprising good. I have been off oxygen since I got here with no ill affects.
Ryan, Al, Angus, and Alan also seem to be doing well.
Overall it was a beautiful day. The views were amazing and the temperatures were pretty good.
The next several hours will be spent getting ready for the summit. We will try to sleep, but will not get much. We will depart around 9:00pm. It should take us around 12 hours to get to the summit. After my performance today I feel pretty positive, but would not guarantee the top. I will do my best and that is all I can do. It will be brutally though that I know.
I want to thank everyone who has supported my along t is journey. I know I already said it, but I will gain much of my strength from Susan, Amy, and Colin.
There may or may not be an update before I send. If not, the next time you will hear from me will be some time on the morning of the 21st (20th night EST time). I will have news then.
Message from Angus:
Dear All
What a great day! Incredible views as we climbed up 850 vertical meters from C3 to the South Col, it took us 7 hours. I’m sucking O's (oxygen) as I write this. We are drinking and eating as we prepare to leave at 9 pm tonight for the summit.
Mum, I’ve got your Christmas cake for dessert.
Sarah, I've got a chocolate bar you sent me to keep me warm.
Feeling good,
All my love,
Angus
(Thanks to all those who are following my climb)
Messages:
Susan, Amy, and Colin, I will be thinking of you as I walk towards the top of the world. I will make it for you.
Love, Daddy Scott.
Barbara , John, and Lachlan
Thanks for continuing to follow along. I know what it is like. I have been a junkie of other peoples Everest blogs in the past. I do it for myself, my family and the others who follow along. I know what it meant to me to follow along with others and I wanted to do tnat as well. That is why I go into the detail and personal thoughts as I do.
Scott, I look forward to sharing photos and stories this summer. Send me an email when I get home with your travel plans.
Janicke, Paul, and the girls
Thanks for your continued support. I look forward to seeing you when I get home.
Karen, Phil, Nathan, and Maggie
Thanks for your continued support. SPAM is a part of many, many meals up here. Our camp 2 cook is much better at preparing it than our base camp cook. The trick is to slice it thin and fry it until it is crispy. Yummm.
We have all started to feel some food stress. The cooking is excellent, but I (we) have almost had enough. There are only so many ways (and days) you can have Spam, spaghetti, rice, and potatoes.
MC, Thanks for your continued support. Alan liked your song. You may be able to send it direct to him when he gets home. We will give it our all over the next few days.
Dave and the Dofasco gang, Thanks for all your support. I'll show you photos in the fall.
Rod, Alison and crew, thanks for your message. We will all be giving it everything we have over the next couple days. Everyone is strong and doing well.
QE, thanks again. I'll do my best to get a summit shot for you.
Paula, I know how hard you work and how determined you are. We will both dig deep and meet our goals.
Messages
Go Guys
Cas — Tue, 05/20/2008 - 11:23This is it...
I wish you all a calm windless summit...that should do it :-) and lots of strenght
Be careful on the way down..will have my fingers crossed ...whished I was there with you
Cas
We're with you!!
pennyl — Tue, 05/20/2008 - 11:34Go, Scott, go! We're with you 100%!! If we could beam you to the top of that summit with all our positive energy, we would! But you are so tough, strong and determined (not to mention, well-trained), that we have every confidence you will make it - dig deep and go for it!! We will be in English class when you head out for the summit, cheering you on for QECVI.
Now go, go, go!!!
Your friends and fans at QECVI
The summit...
Mary Clare Reinhardt — Tue, 05/20/2008 - 11:45Scott~
Your updates have been phenomenal! Enjoyed the descriptions all the way up to the South Col. I am thinking positive thoughts for all of you and hopefully by the time you read this, you will be Everest summiteers. Regardless of the outcome, you have certainly inspired me and this has been one heck of an adventure.
Best,
MC
"Success may be found when you reach the top of the mountain but lucky is the one who finds adventure along the way." m.c. reinhardt
TO THE TOP!!!!!!!!!!!!
Visitor — Tue, 05/20/2008 - 12:09AMAZING SCOTT, AND TEAM. GO FOR IT. THINKING OF YOU AND I WILL KEEP POSITIVE ENERGY FOR YOU OVER THE NEXT DAY, AS YOU CLIMB. SUCCESS WILL BE THERE.
GREAT VISIT WITH SUSAN AND KIDS THIS WEEKEND. ALL THE BEST FROM C'WOOD.
JANE, JOHN, BRIER, KAILEY
Go Big Mon!
geoffshaw — Tue, 05/20/2008 - 12:14Angus! Sounds amazing! Enjoy the rest of your climb and don't eat too much Christmas cake- high alcohol content. Happy climbing, team!! See you, Geoff
Go scott go!
Visitor — Tue, 05/20/2008 - 12:49I am with you all the way from Versailles- which is charming by the way. I thought of you during my 10km run today around the gardens and chateau verailles. SOUNDS like you are doing great, positive, focused and determined to reach the stars. Be smart and know all your family and friends are just thrilled learning about your ultimate dream. If you listen closely you will hear all of us cheeing you on. Bonne chance! Paula
Up for the Final Push!!
Visitor — Tue, 05/20/2008 - 13:38Scott:
We are sure that soon you'll be able to say "I'm on top of the world" and have the experience to prove it!!! It certainly sounds as though you are in great shape for the final push. We're all thinking about you and sending positive thoughts and prayers your way. We'll watch this site tonight and tomorrow morning for your updates.
Thanks for taking us all along on this fantastic journey. With your desciptions, we feel like we're there with you without needing to be freezing (or boiling) our backsides. We just got a kid's book on Everest and read it last night, so the kids have at least a picture in their heads of what your are accomplishing today / tomorrow.
Lots of luck!!
Phil & Karen, Nathan & Maggie
All the Best!!
pippy — Tue, 05/20/2008 - 14:10Hey Scott, its Paula's more vocal half here!! I wish you all the best. I guess thinking of that picture you once showed me of you sleeping in a hammock suspended on the side of a rock face 1000 ft up was no big deal comparitively!! It takes a certain determination and strength that few people have to do what you do but we are all the better for it. Be strong, be safe and in the words of a one great mountaineer "It is not the mountains that we conquer, but ourselves."
Yeah a little cliche!! Oh by the way if there are some of those snowglobes available up there that Paul was talking about I'll have one!!
Robin
Gogogo and be safe.
Visitor — Tue, 05/20/2008 - 14:25To success and safe return gogogogogogogogog0 For it....Rod and Al and the Murray Clan..
The edge of our seats
Visitor — Tue, 05/20/2008 - 14:46Hi Scott,
You've got us all on the edge of our seats! It's sounding excellent.
I almost wish I were there ... well, until I think about all the work, waiting, cold, hot, pain, sickness, fatigue, uncertainty, etc that you guys have endured over the past two months to get to where you are. We're all very lucky to be able to follow this great adventure and share in it in some way.
Keep it up! You're awesome!
Dave
Godspeed
taloeffler — Tue, 05/20/2008 - 14:57Scott,
You've got your moment. May everything come together for you just right. Take in every moment of where you are and use it to power through the inevitable hard and impossible spots. Climb safe and take good care.
TA
we'll be thinking about you
Visitor — Tue, 05/20/2008 - 15:12hey scott- just a quick message to say we'll be thinking of you (and have been everyday for a while now!) as you push towards the top of the world. it's been so great to follow along on your journey! speaking of journey, so surprised it didn't come up in your music discussion...
don't stop believin' :)
claudia
The time has come!
Visitor — Tue, 05/20/2008 - 15:16Good Luck, Scott...the time has come to reach the summit! I am so excited for you and wish you all the best. I have so enjoyed following your journey. We are all so proud of you.
Enjoy the view!!!
'Big' Amy
great descriptions!
sarah — Tue, 05/20/2008 - 15:44Jill, Dallas, TX
You have just added so much more understanding of the terrain and the surroundings. You sound sooo strong! What a great experience! Drink it in and be careful! We look forward to hear more detailed descriptions when you are able!
Sounding Strong
Visitor — Tue, 05/20/2008 - 16:15Hi Scott,
I am an old friend of Angus' in Toronto. I have enjoyed reading your posts. You guys sound strong. I'll be wishing you well in real time from the Duke of York tonight as you guys reach for the peak.
Nancy
Enjoy the View ....
wmpopper — Tue, 05/20/2008 - 16:22Scott, Angus...
Thank you for your continued interesting reportage as you ascend Everest.
Best of conditions for you all the next few days. Take good care...
WP
Excitement is in the air in Oakville
Visitor — Tue, 05/20/2008 - 17:20Scott, We're thrilled with your (and your team's) achievements. Looking forward to your next dispatch. Wonderful to hear you're feeling so well and strong. Best of luck for good weather and not too much waiting in line for your turn to summit. Mops and Pops
Go Go go
cbunge — Tue, 05/20/2008 - 20:24You can do it!!!
Go!Go!Go!
BarbC — Tue, 05/20/2008 - 22:49Hey Scott and Angus,
Good Morning! From the time difference I figure you are about 5 hours from the SUMMIT! Go!Go!Go! We have toasted you over dinner here and wait anxiously for the news.
Lots of love, good weather and climbing vibes!
Barb, John and Lachlan
Thinking of you all day and wish you strength
Visitor — Tue, 05/20/2008 - 22:59Cindy, Paul and Amanda,
Love reading your latest update, and hearing from Susan about your great trip together. She is so excited and proud of you and it is contagious. Thinking of you throughout the night and putting strength in your every step. Look forward to reading after tonight and seeing you at home. Go hard! xo
One of a privileged few
drkenttaylor — Wed, 05/21/2008 - 00:22Thanks for all your amazing reporting! Enjoy your prize...standing on the highest point on the planet. Our collective energy is with you as you take the last and hardest steps of your amazing journey. Everest..the ultimate natural "high"!
Kent Taylor and staff
All the best to the very top !!
Visitor — Wed, 05/21/2008 - 02:46We are wishing you all the very best as you are on your way to the very top....this is sooooo exciting and we can't wait to hear all about it tomorrow. Be proud Scott....you are awesome !! Your dream is within reach !!
Janicke Paul Helena & Ellie
touch the sky
Visitor — Wed, 05/21/2008 - 03:03Yeeeeeeeah! Scott! Go GO GO!! Cheering for your adventure all the way to your tip toes, Galen
Anticipation ....
Visitor — Wed, 05/21/2008 - 05:34Angus' brother from Calgary ... 11:30 PM Mon 20th.
You are so close by now I suspect .... finish strong !
............. Ian
Awaiting news....
Paul Adler — Wed, 05/21/2008 - 05:44I think you are not alone in hoping to hear some news. I know I am eagerly awaiting to hear how Scott & Angus have got on.
Paul.
To Alan...
Mary Clare Reinhardt — Wed, 05/21/2008 - 14:30Please let Alan know that he is a hero to me and has inspired me with his passion and cause to climb Everest. I just read on his site that he had to turn around at the balcony due to fatigue. Getting to the balcony is an amazing accomplishment most of us could only dream of. And of course making good decisions at high altitude is what being a great mountaineer is all about.
Best,
MC
Congratulations!
Visitor — Wed, 05/21/2008 - 15:26Scott Angus Alan Al and Ryan! Great work getting to Camp 4 and Congrats on your summit bid!
Home eating chips in Boston....
NASA Jim
YEAH!!!!!
Visitor — Thu, 05/22/2008 - 15:05Way to go Scott! Its an unbelievable dream come true!
Mike Rosanne and the boys