May 14

< Newer | Older > Wed, 05/14/2008 - 15:46 — Angus Murray

May 14
Everest Base Camp
I finally got my emails from the last 2 weeks (thanks to Paul Adler at myeverest.com) for some mysterious reason my PDA wasn't working.
It is great to get notes of encouragement, so thanks to: Roy McIntosh, the RLC gang, Geoff and Kiyomi, Barb C, Derek and Andrea, the STS community, folks from the USA, my family and my wife Sarah.
So, we are getting down to the final stretch. I have been here 6 weeks and the summit push is next!
Yesterday we got back from Camp 3 at 7100 m. To get from C2 to C3 you have to climb 500 vertical meters up the Lhotse face, a 40 to 60 degree ice face. Our tents were tucked in underneath an ice cliff. Climbing the Lhotse face was awesome; exposed. challenging, a place where all your thoughts are focused on the immediate present. Where you place each foot, clipping a single carabiner into a safety line...this is all you are thinking about. I had an OK sleep at C3, my pulse was good, respiration good, no headaches, but I didnt sleep much. In the morning we descended down the face as the winds increased and whipped around ground snow and ice particles. It was a great 24 hours in that it was challenging and exposed. The views down the western cwm were spectacular. From C3 we could see the yellow band beside us and the geneva spur above us, places that I have read about. We stopped at C2 for lunch then continued on to BC as it was starting to snow and bad weather (more snow and wind) was predicted for the next day. The UV was so intense on the Lhotse Face that I burnt the end of my tongue, something that has never happened to me before. At such a high altitude and climbing on ice, the UV penetrated my mouth as I breathed and burnt my tongue. Everest BC has already experienced a 20 % attrition rate for climbers this season. Why have people gone home? Illness, injury and mental fatigue are the 3 main contributing factors. The key now is to stay healthy, hydrate, eat and sleep well, as we may be starting up towards the summit on the 17th. I will let folks know when the summit push starts. I hope the weather stays good and that the monsoon doesn't come early!
Feeling good,
Angus

Messages

Great news!!

weberac — Wed, 05/14/2008 - 16:13

It is great news to hear of your success up the Lhotse face and with your overnight at C3! I hope you have a good few rest days at BC and can stay healthy for the final summit bid. You are in my thoughts daily and I wish you all the best for your final push - great weather, great health, great energy, and fantastic views! You have always enjoyed the moment Angus - so I hope you enjoy this one!! Lots of love,
Andrea W.

Hi Gus,

Visitor — Wed, 05/14/2008 - 16:55

Hey Bro,
Thanks for the update. I also listened to Ryan's audio post and read Scott's update, both informative and the description of Lhotse was intense, to say the least. I guess it's down to the basic elements now: sleep, eat, hydrate, and (don't confuse your pee bottle with your water bottle!) David and I will be sending all our positive vibes your way for a successful outcome.
Stay safe, enjoy the view, and we look forward to game of Croquet, cottage- style, sometime,

Love Loll,

Climb On

Visitor — Wed, 05/14/2008 - 18:28

Scott -great job on the updates and insights into the daily trials and tribs of your adventure. The Murray and Lewis Clans (the Angus Connection) are sending best wishes to success on the Final push for the top.. All of the family in Canada and overseas enjoy your posts....they are considerably longer than Angus's...We assume his thumbs are sore /the Crackberry has crashed or he is sleeping .....Again.... ( Great Sarcasm here..) Give him our love and stay safe...Rod Alison Jean Don and the Brit Connection..
just saw the furthur update Gus it seems you are back in action electronically....Rod

Repost from Scotts blog from Jean and Don

Visitor — Wed, 05/14/2008 - 18:29

Thanks for your phone message and the lovely flowers you sent for Mother's Day!!!Sorry to miss your call. Jean talked to Sarah last Sunday and she is fine.Very Busy prepping for the triathelon.
All of us are excited about your progress and await the next report. We wish you a Safe and Successful journey.
Love form All of your Family and Friends....Mum and Dad

Hey Big Mon!!!

jnopryor — Thu, 05/15/2008 - 00:01

So glad to see that the torchette has been packed on to Grinch’s sled and sent off to Whoville. The Lhotse face sounds truly awesome. I’m vibrating just visualizing your climb. I just know that you had a smile a kilometre wide up on that face. Thanks for describing Everest using ALL five senses (I see you have taught writing). I beg to differ about the burning tongue issue. If I recall, it probably happened a few times at North House. Sarah P. is working like mad in the kitchen developing a new UV tongue protection gum which she calls “EverDent” or “Dentscreen”. I’m not sure that Canada Post will deliver on time for the summit bid.

We are very pleased that you are in good health and that you have all your “systems” in order to pursue your quest. You can do it big mon. Chomolungma awaits.

Love Sarah, Jeremy, Natalie and Matthew

P.S. Matthew is currently reading Gordon Korman’s "Everest" series.

Pep talk your Mother does not want to hear!

Visitor — Thu, 05/15/2008 - 02:46

Well done so far Angus. Getting the chance to sleep at Camp 3 is major. Staying physically and mentally healthy this long is huge! Once you're on the gas when you are back up there where planes fly you will feel better. Keep sucking on candies to keep the cwm cough at a minimum, you can't avoid it but you can try to neutalize it at best. If any more delays come along see if you can drop down for even a few days to lower elevation. If the 17th is a go then you are one lucky guy. Just remember no matter what you spit up, cough up, or how many times you toss your cookies if the weather is right and your head is okay don't stop. No matter how bad you hurt, stopping will be way more painful. Anyways, what's a few more days of hurting for a life time of memories of glory to remember? Oh yea, bring a jar of peanut butter to camp 2. At 21,000 feet you are burning some 17,000 calories a day. The peanut butter will help but you will still come back looking like a bone rack. One last point, if the mountain Gods are going to grant you the opportunity to grace the summit then once there you are only 50% done so get your butt back down quickly and most importantly safely. Thinking of you every day. All the best.

Michael, Lauren and Taylor Boni

Thre, two , one and up we go!

rmcintosh — Thu, 05/15/2008 - 04:40

Well done on your climb to Camp 3. Splendid! Rest well, eat a tonne and get ready for the big push. Sounds like there are a lot of folks headed up Chomolungma and I am positive from all you have written that your team is in great shape for the final push. My hope is that you are in the summit team and the weather holds. May the Force be with you.
There's a bottle of single malt waiting for you here on the Wet Coast when you get back.
Cheers, Roy

Wishing you good sleeps and

cbunge — Thu, 05/15/2008 - 09:35

Wishing you good sleeps and lots of energy and concentration on those long faces. Go for it Angus, stay well. Colin