There has been much excitement happening on Everest but over on Annapurna, it is quite a different story. I have been following an expedition of Don Bowie, a climber from Bishop, California. Don, along with numerous others, has shown amazing courage and compassion in the following rescue attempt. This is a story of heroism and the true spirit of mountaineering although it has a very sad ending.

Don Bowie, who successfully summited K2 last year, has been on Annapurna (one of the most dangerous of the fourteen 8,000m peaks) since mid-March. Don and his original team members, high altitude climber Iñaki Ochoa (Spain) and Horia Colibasanu (Romania), had been setting up and acclimatizing on the mountain for approximately two months (Don had arrived before Iñaki and Horia and had been on the mountain even longer). As they were preparing for their summit bid and without a break in the weather, the team was faced with a difficult decision. At C-2, Iñaki and Horia had wanted to make a summit push but Don was justifiably concerned about weather and avalanche danger. Iñaki and Horia escorted Don down to BC, parted ways and headed back up the mountain. As Don was no longer on the team, he considered making a solo attempt of Annapurna when the weather forecast looked better. His camera man, Dan Stensland accompanied Don back to C-1 and then on to C-2. Dan was going to “man the fort” at C-2 while Don continued on. It wasn’t long before Don decided to abort his summit attempt due to heavy snow conditions and the challenges of a solo ascent. Don and Dan descended to BC and then onto Jinhu Danda for some R and R before embarking on his next expedition. While enroute, (in Pokhara) Don was notified that his two previous climbing partners, Iñaki and Horia along with Alexey Bolotov (a Russian climber who had joined them) were in trouble. Iñaki had frost nip and could not move or speak; Horia was with his climbing partner at C-4 (7,400 meters). The location and condition of Alexey was unclear. All three climbers had been up to C-5 (7,830 meters) on a summit bid. Iñaki and Horia turned around approximately 100m below the summit while Alexey continued on. After learning of the plight of his ex-team mates, Don proceeded to contact Russian climber, Serguey Bogomolov, who was in Kathmandu coordinating a rescue effort at the time. The families of Iñaki and Horia were contacted and along with the efforts of many others, three rescue parties were formed. One of the parties, which consisted of Don Bowie, Denis Urubko and Serguey Bogomolov (still nursing frostbite from several weeks back on the Wall of Annapurna) was helicoptered to the mountain and were forced to land in Chomrong (seven hours walking distance to BC) due to weather. Don and Denis set off on foot to BC and then proceeded up the steep slopes of Annapurna toward C-1, hoping to make their way to Iñaki and Horia still at C-4. Serguey remained in Chomrong where a back up team was set up, including Polish Doctor Robert Szymczak. In the meantime, the Russian climber, Alexey, had surfaced and was making his way down the mountain. While all of this was going on, another one of the rescue parties (two Swiss climbers, Ueli Steck and Simon, who had now aborted their own summit attempt of Annapurna) were well on their way from BC. They made it up to C-3 and then from C-3, Ueli climbed on to C-4 allowing Horia, who was extremely tired and weakened from the altitude and cold weather, to leave his climbing partner, Iñaki, and descend. Ueli administered Dexa, offered medical assistance to Iñaki and stayed with him at C-4. Simon had remained at C-3 and when Horia arrived, together they made their descent to C-2 where they were air lifted out by helicopter. By this time, Don and Denis had continued their push and were past C-3 with oxygen and other needed medical supplies. They had been joined by Alexey Bolotov who stopped his descent and headed back up the mountain to assist. But now Iñaki’s condition worsened and as the rescue parties continued up the mountain, they learned the tragic news; Iñaki had died on May 23rd, 12.30 pm, local time at C-4 with Ueli Steck trying to reanimate him until the end. All were devastated. The weather was deteriorating and yet Don and company continued up the mountain to meet Ueli who was now descending. Through surrounding avalanches, snow fall and low visibility, the climbers met up on the face of the Wall and together they slowly made their way down the mountain. They are now safely back at BC along with others involved in the rescue effort including Polish Doctor Robert Szymczak, Serguey Bogomolov and a number of sherpas (Pemba Ongchu Sherpa, Ongchu Sherpa, Mr. Wangchu Sherpa, Chhiring Finjo Sherpa and one unnamed) who with medical supplies had been waiting at C-2. There are more people involved in this rescue attempt I have not mentioned and you can read the details on Don Bowie’s web site here and also several stories on Explorers Web here. I am in awe of the courage and comradeship portrayed by Don and all of the climbers involved and I wanted to share this amazing rescue effort. My thoughts and well wishes go out to Iñaki’s family and friends.

Iñaki Ochoa climbed 12 of the 14 8000m peaks, including a new route on Shisha Pangma. He was born in Pamplona, Spain on May 29, 1967. He had been on 30 Himalayan expeditions and also worked as a high altitude cameraman and guide.

MC