Choosing a radio - GMRS or VHF

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Reading the instruction manual for my Vertex VX150 VHF radio.  I was learning how to store the VHF frequencies of the other teams into the memory of the radio.  Photo Paul Adler.I carried two different types of radios on Everest this year – a new digital GMRS radio and a VHF radio.  Here is how they compared. 

The models that I used were a Vertex VX150 VHF radio and a Midland GTX600 GMRS radio.

Price
There is a reasonable difference in price of these items – the Midland radio is less than $60 for a pair from Amazon, whereas the Vertex radio is about $250 for a pair on ebay and much more than that if you buy through a retail shop.  And then you’ll need to buy any accessories such as a microphone and antenna for the VHF unit.

So how did they perform?
In close range, there wasn’t much difference between the GMRS and the VHF unit.  On Everest South this means between BC and C1.  However once you got past C1, there was a noticeable difference, with the VHF radio performing significantly better than the GMRS.  The VHF range is definitely further than the GMRS and I think the microphone is better, enabling you to still understand the other person, even when the signal is weak.  At the South Col, the GMRS didn’t work at all, but the VHF worked as long as we held it in a particular spot inside the tent.  Above the South Col, neither radio could communicate with base camp until we reached the South Summit.  One of our sherpas had a radio with a long antenna and this seemed to work.

We only had the standard 21cm antenna on our Yaesu radio, but I would highly recommend buying a longer one.  Make sure you get one that is designed for 144Mhz.  If I was doing this, I would buy a long one (at least 1m) and then mount in onto the side of my packpack, being held in by the compression straps.  I had an external speaker and microphone connected to our radio and clipped to my backpack shoulder strap, and this allowed me to easily use the radio whilst climbing, without needing to take it off my packpack.

Other factors to consider
Almost every other team on Everest was using VHF 144Mhz frequency radios, so it’s handy to have your own radio to be able to communicate with other teams, especially in an emergency.  Also the HRA (medical) only has 144Mhz. 
The performance of both radios improved when lithium batteries were used, as compared with Duracell Alkaline.  Lithium batteries are a lot lighter than alkaline and you really notice this in a VHF handset which takes 6-8 batteries.

Messages

radios

Jill, Dallas, TX
Really enjoy your assessments of the equipment you used. However, I am most eager to hear your comparison of Asian Trekking to the company you used last year and what REALLY happened last year.

It's coming

Hi Jill, The Asian Trekking and IMG comparison is coming! Regards, Paul.

Dear Paul, I have no

Dear Paul,

I have no intention of ever scaling Everest, or any other exorbitantly large mountain for that matter, but yet I find your critiques on down suits, radios and other miscellaneous climbing equipment most interesting. Go figure!

I hope you and Fiona are well, and settling back into Melbourne-town. Keep up the good work.

Zoe

Thank

Hi Paul,
Thank for this. I agree with your assessment completely. The advice on a longer antenna is very interesting. Did you bury the radio in the pack to combat the effects of the cold on the radios batteries? I was just about busting waiting for the next reveiw. Thanks again, can't wait for the next one.
Craig

Use Lithium batteries

If you use Lithium batteries, it seems to be fine with the cold. I had mine on the outside of my pack all the time.

The Next Review?

Hi Paul,
Just wondering when the next review is coming?
Craig.

Next review on AT

Hi Craig, I am working on a review of Asian Trekking and comparing them to IMG. Cheers, Paul.

Next review

Hey Paul:
How come you're keeping us waiting? ;)
I'm very interested in the next installment.

Mark

asian trekking and IMG

Jill, Dallas, TX

Can hardly wait for this installment, Paul. Hope life is going great for you and Fiona.

Review is being put on the site now

Hi Jill,
I am just putting it up on the site now and it should be visible in a few days. Cheers, Paul.

Yeahhhhh!

Jill, Dallas, TX
Will be checking daily!