Mt. Everest was a challenge! I just want to make sure that all following my adventure know that this was no easy hill to climb! It was definitely the hardest thing that I have ever done and was made more difficult by both factors outside my control (weather, altitude, degree of difficulty) as well as some of those within my control (clothing, nutrition, hydration, and sleep).

My first climb from Camp 2 - Camp 3 was very challenging as it was my first time to ascend the Lhotse Face, and unfortunately was done at midday when I was exposed to the harsh sun as I approached the base of the climb, and then again the sun as I climbed the wall to camp. This climb exhausted me and it took me awhile to fully recover from the dehydration associated with the exposure to the intense sun! My second climb from Camp 2 - Camp 3 was much better as we left Camp 2 earlier in the morning to avoid the intense sun and were actually in Camp 3 by noon! However, the intense sun still prevaled at Camp 3 and tried to bake us as we lay in our tents! To cool ourselves as best possible we draped our sleeping bags over the top of the tents ... but still the sun prevailed! In the meantime we kept the high altitude stove burning in the foyer of our tent as we constantly melted snow and boiled the subsequent water to provide fluids to drink and to cook our meal packets. Hydrate, hydrate, hydrate was the plan ... but it took quite along time to make a measurable quantity of fluids to drink, and my tentmate and I were both tired and needed sleep!

Late afternoon turned to evening and as the sun left our tents, the extreme cold set in quickly like a freezer door being opened and exposing all to it's frigid temperatures! With the onset of the cold temperatures we were less reluctant to get up and access more snow to melt, so were content to deal with what we had ... which was alot less than what we needed! That night I did not sleep at all as my mind kept racing to the next night and the knowledge that I would be climbing to the top of the world throughout the evening and night hours! I kept going over the route in my mind, making certain that I maintained all safety measures, kept warm, and made it to the top! However, it was now that I needed sleep to energize myself for the hit that my system would take tomorrow night ... but there I lay all night long listening to the steady breathing of my tentmate, who slept like a log!

With sunrise came an immediate change in temperature as our tent began to bake in the early morning sun! In our haste to get going we did not replenish our fluids so started our climb with less than minimal hydration. We also started the climb in down suits as the route ahead was supposed to be cold, and we headed out using oxygen for the first time! Prior to departure we noted that my regulator might not be accurate as there was a concern about leakage.

The climb out of Camp 3 starts with an ascent of a 30 ft. high wall and by the time I got to the top I was sweating profusely! It wasn't as cold as expected and I felt that I had way too many clothes on! I normally overheat easily and usually can tolerate the cold quite well, so decided to take off my outer layer, which was the high altitude down suit! It was at this time that members from our extended team, on their way down from Camp 4, stopped to replace my oxygen tank/regulator. Now I was ready to climb as I was cooler and had a good working oxygen system. However, the sun kept it's burning rays focused directly on me alone and I soon began to dehydrate as I had few fluids to quench my thirst. As I climbed the Yellow Band I noticeably started to slow down and the wind started to blow stronger. I resisted adding layers as I felt I could keep warm enough by moving forward. As I slowly climbed the slope up the Geneva Spur I began to notice more the bite of the wind on my legs which at present were only covered by a pair of expedition weight long johns!

The acute angle of the spur gave rise to my fear of heights and my forward motion slowed to a crawl as I tried to deal with the extreme drop on my left side. I hate that I have this fear of heights as it causes all kinds of problems! Because of my fear I normally slow to a snail's pace as I take extra time to make certain my feet are where they are supposed to be, and all the while trying to avoid looking at the open exposed areas that are all around me! Carol has said that I look like an old man when this happens as I adopt a shuffle type movement! (it did not occur on this trip, but I have been known to get down on hands and knees on the sides of cliffs/trails when I was most afraid of the exposure!). I usually also develop tunnel vision and feel like I have blinders in place that prevent me from looking left or right!

While I was dealing with my fear of heights and trying to manage the steep grade of the Geneva Spur, my oxygen cylinder silently emptied the last few molecules of it's contents into my mask and would be the last oxygen I would breathe until I reached Camp 4 over an hour later! The struggle up and over the peak of the Geneva Spur seemed prolonged and more difficult, and was much more complicated than I thought it should be? Once over the spur I was blasted by the winds that swoop down on the South Col. Blowing snow blinded my route and I had to consistently halt my forward advance due to fear of walking off the narrow trail! Despite the sharp drop in temperature I continued to hesitate to add more layers as I kept thinking Camp 4 was just around the next bend ... but it never was, and I was getting colder and colder! Finally, I stopped to put on my down jacket, and tried desparately to don my down pants, but the wind kept ripping them out of my hands! I tried and tried and tried, but ended up wasting too much time and energy! I was getting hypothermic very rapidly and my sense of urgency turned to panic as I suddenly realized that I was in dire straits! I was at slightly over 26,000 ft. of altitude, had been without oxygen for about an hour, was still greatly underdressed, and was now feeling the cumulative effects of lack of nutrition, and hydration. I started stumbling and felt the wind spinning me around. My legs were numb and I was weak. Where was Camp 4? How much farther did I have to go? Would anyone hear me if I started yelling?

And then I saw a tent ahead in the distance ... what a beautiful site! The wind was trying to rip it off the mountain, but it stood there against the wind and invited me to move forward. As I entered Camp 4 I saw other tents, but no one outside as the winds were blowing at least 40-50mph. I stumbled up to the first tent and started yelling for help! No one answered, or at least I could not hear anyone if they did! I stumbled to the next tent and yelled again ... and this time there was an answer. I unzipped the outer tent and the inner layer soon opened to reveal two big arms that reached up and physically pulled me into the tent! I was in the arms of my tentmates who had been worried about my disposition! As I kept mumbling that I was okay my two friends set to work to warm me up as they quickly realized the severity of my situation! While one wrapped me in a down sleeping bag, the other placed high flow oxygen on my face. Boots and outer clothes were removed and extremities were rubbed vigorously as circulation was stimulated in those areas that were most affected by the exposure to the elements! A guide from one of our teams was called in to assess the situation and recommended 3 litres of fluids to be forced into me ASAP as we had to depart for the summit within 3 hours! I remember him questioning if I was going to be able to leave for the summit in the condition that I was presently in! I tried to speak and get up to move about to show that I was okay, but was told to rest, hydrate, and keep warm. Within minutes I sunk into a deep well deserved sleep and blacked out the scenario unfolding in front of me!

I awoke 2 hours later and felt numb. Where was I? What had happened? What was wrong with me? It was a very strange awakening of which I will never forget! And the worst part of it all was that I had one hour to go before I departed the tent at 9:00pm to climb to the top of the world ... all night long! What had I gotten myself into?

To be continued ...