Bound for Three

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Saturday May 10. Camp 2.
8:00am Update: Last night was a good Night. Dinner was at 6pm and was fried rice and pasta with sauce. It was pretty good. We sat around talking for a while as we did not want to go to bed until 8pm.
Our head Sherpa, Lama Babu, came in to talk. He had just returned from the day working on ropes to camp 3 and setting up camp 3. Eleven Sherpa had spend two days working and everything is completed. They have set an up and a down line to camp 3 and tent platforms have been carved out of the ice. He said the ice on the Lhotse face is very hard with no snow. This will make climbing more tiring as we will need to kick our crampons into the ice with every step. Over the passage of many climbers this will become easier as steps will begin to form. We will go up tomorrow. We are meeting about our plan later today.
I slept well last night. I have my down suit - sleeping bag system all figured out. I was quite comfortable and not cold at all. I took a Diamox before I went too sleep. This drug will help me to further acclimatize to camp 2 and I also find it helps me sleep. Not that I think I needed much help in that department after yesterday.
I'm not sure exactly what today will hold. I will do another update later.
The sun just hit my tent at 8:13am. It is warming very fast.
4:30pm Update:
We just got back from a walk towards the Lhotse face. We went up for 50 minutes and it only took us 20 minutes to get back. The start out of our camp is at a good angle and is pretty continuous to the top of camp 2. Although not too steep it was quite tiring until my body warmed up. We got to where the "Stop Climbers" sign used to be and it was gone. It would have made a good souvenir.
At the high point of our walk we hit 6580m and we still had about one hour to the base of the Lhotse face. From here we had a good view of the route and the tents at camp 3. There are three sets of tents each set 50-100m apart up the hill. Our tents are in the middle set. I could see a long line of climbers and Sherpa on the route. Above camp 3 I could see about 10 Sherpa setting the rope to the yellow band and towards the Geneva Spur. I was told by our head Sherpa that it takes a team of 16 Sherpa 2 days to set the rope to camp 4.
Our plan is to depart camp 2 around 5am. We figure it will take 2 hours to get to the base of the face and an additional 3 hours to get to camp 3. I am looking forward to getting there, but know the trip there will be a al test physically. We will carry up the absolute minimum to spend the night reasonably comfortably. It will be a long night and we may not get much sleep.
There are various philosophies regarding camp 3. Only about 50% of the climbers here will spend the night at camp 3. The other 50% will just touch the camp and go back down. The Sherpa will not sleep there. They think it is too scary a place and they don't need it for acclimatization. There is a debate if spending a night at 3 gives you more acclimatization than just touching it and going down. Some say the the ability to acclimatize above 7200m is questionable. We have decided to sleep there because we feel it will give us some additional acclimatization.
Not much else to tell for now. I don't think I will take the phone to camp 3. I will send another dispatch on May 12 when I get back to camp 2.
Hugs to Susan, Amy and Colin.
Scott SS

Messages:

Susan, Amy & Colin, glad you had fun in NYC. I wish I could have been there. I miss you all very much.

Liane & QE gang, thanks for sending a package. It is always great to get deliveries at BC. I will let you know when it arrives. I should be able to post most days now. I'll be up on the Lhotse face tomorrow and will let you know all about it.

Messages

Camp 3

Scott:

We're very excited about your climb up to Camp 3 - especially since the climbers in our novel are doing the exact same thing right now! We have also watched some video footage from Ben Webster's Discovery team going up the Lhotse Face, so we have a good idea what you're up against. Hang in there - it's a long climb! We're looking forward to hearing all the details. Why do the Sherpa think it is too scary? Is it the 60 degree slope, or are they concerned about high winds? I have shown my students photos of the tents at Camp 3 and they have all said "you couldn't pay me to sleep there!!" Please don't roll out of bed in the middle of the night!

Thinking of you as you head up the Lhotse Face,

Liane and the QE kids

PS - Have you received other packages at Base Camp? Can I rely on High Altitude Dreams to put the package on a yak train to BC?

Moving With Excitement

Hey Scott,

Okay - now I am losing ground on my work because I am hooked on following you and Angus up the Mountain! Glad to hear you will make it to camp 3 today but the sleeping sounds brutal! I will send you good sleeping thoughts or at least a nice deep, peaceful rest - maybe you can meditate through it and still get the rest your body needs. Why do the sherpas not want to sleep there?

Found the mountain professionals blog - good to see some pictures of you and Angus mid adventure!

Good luck - climb well - climb safe - lots of support and good vibes for you and Angus (for the whole team too of course).

Barb, John and Lachlan!

Mom & Mike

It's mother's Day and i'm thinking of you. Following daily and seeing you getteing closer to the summit is exciting. Karen posts your messages at school so students and staff can follow along. Boat in the water this week. Karen here for weelend. love you miss you Mom

Hello from Windsor

Scott

At Windsor Regional we are watching your progress. Needless to say you are the first person we are aware of that is making the trek up Everest. People are still talking about the expert education/leadership training you provided to WRH.

Best of luck and keep writing.

Windsor Regional Hospital Team

Enjoy your night at camp 3 ! You are amazing !

So exciting to read your updates....we are always thinking about you and the girls ask about you as well...you were even conversation at our mother's day brunch with our family. All the best up there...stay safe and may the weather be perfect for you !!
Janicke Paul Helena & Ellie

press on

Hey Scott! Good luck at base 3, sleep tight, don't let any icy bed bugs bite. We went for a long walk on the beach today and saw 8 eagles. The cherry blossoms have bloomed and for the past few days the wind has blown them everywhere so we are all covered in pink snow. So beautiful. I hope toasty thoughts keep you warm and that you have what you need for the next leg. Cheers Pedro.

On the move again

Hi Scott.

I'm glad to hear you're moving again. I know you're not the type to sit around so it must feel great, tiring though it is. Are you getting lots of photos? How's Angus doing?

All the best, and keep the stories rolling!

Dave G

Good work

Hi Scott, am really enjoying reading your posts, you paint a great picture for those of us not there, move over Jon Kraukauer. Sounds as though all preparations are going well and I hope your getting plenty of rest, as I remember a wise Canadian once telling me that if your climbing a mountain correctly you will have more chance of getting bed sores than suffering altitude sickness.

When you reach the summit I appreciate you will have multiple thoughts and emotions running through the system. A great Oz expression would be to smile and just say 'a piece of p@*s mate'.

Look forward to the next entry.
Cheers
Nick Turner

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