About Mike

Camp One, April 2006, Lhotse face behindSo, here I am, 50 years old in July, a family doctor in the northwest of England, with an overdraft rivalling the size of my stomach, and a dream that I'm stubbornly holding on to that has exceeded my grasp so far after two previous attempts. I want to stand on the top of Everest. What am I doing???

I've always been happiest in hills and mountains, despite growing up in the flat south of England. My interest was developed after scout camps in North Wales, and from a precocious age I discovered some aptitude to match my affinity, so off I went. If it wasn't for my parallel competing drive to study medicine I think I'd have pursued climbing as a total way of life, but I found medicine all consuming through my youth, along with later marriage, the birth of my two sons, and the improvement of our medical practice in the sunny(?) Lake District. Throughout this period of my life, mountains were reduced increasingly to a minor hobby, with so much time pressure to do other things.

    Everest dream begins

I guess I had the first of a subsequent series of mid-life crises once settled in the area, precipitated by an invitation to help guide visually impaired climbers to Mera Peak, in Nepal, then little-known, though around 6500m in height. I had a broad base of previous mountaineering experience at that time, including significant alpine outings, and felt competent enough to wish to stretch myself in the Himalaya, at greater altitude. As a family man, I had certainly noticed a new attitude to risk-taking, and felt more drawn to the challenges of endurance rather than technique. Like most of us, I'd been drawn by the Everest struggles of the 1920's, 30's, and then 50's, and from an early age had always wondered how it would feel high in the Himalayan-sized mountains.
The trip to Mera, and a similar trip a couple of years later to trek in Nepal,again with the visually impaired, really set me thinking about trying greater high altitude challenges. This was made possible for a part-time mountaineer like myself by the development around that time of commercial expeditions in their various guises. I was drawn to a double headed trip to Shishapangma and Cho Oyu, 14th and 6th highest mountains in the world, at a time when few climbers had summited two 8000m peaks in the same season. Ambitious? Me? I vaguely thought that if I performed reasonably well on that trip, then maybe, just maybe, I'd look towards Everest one day. My Everest dream was thus born.

               8000m challenges......worth it, or not??

I did reasonably well on that first double trip, with minimal training, but turned down just short of the summit of Shishapangma at 7800m. Later, with some broken ribs, in a small group of five in alpine style, alone on the mountain as the monsoon approached, we retreated honorably from Cho Oyu too. I learned a great deal about altitude on that trip, but not quite enough about myself. So in 1998 I returned to Cho Oyu, having trained more seriously, and eventually turned down at 7400m in extreme cold from a steep variation on the normal route(avalanche risk on the normal way), and very much affected by the tragic death of a climber from another group on the mountain...a family man like myself. At that stage my Everest dream was in tatters. I thought I shouldn't take the risk.
This loss of confidence didn't put me off somewhat smaller hills, and trips to India to 6500m peaks such as Nanda Ghunti and Shivling revealed to me that although those sort of mountains had a manageable challenge, in relative comfort, for me, I was still inexorably drawn back to the special test set by more extreme altitude.
I then decided the risk of Everest was acceptable after all, not least because of the improving safety record on the peak, the increasing age and maturity of my sons, and the sad demise of my marriage. This latter development was not related directly to my mountain activities, but I don't suppose they helped things.

             Everest 2004 and 2006

So in 2004, with the kind support of my many partner's at work, I attempted Everest fromMe just after arrival down at base-camp in 2006, after turning back from 8650m. Not my greatest moment in life, but I was in one piece at least. the north with Dave Pritt's Adventure Peak's support. This provided another great learning experience, and a great trip all round, but the vagaries of weather forecasting in the mountains lead to us picking the wrong weather window in which to try and summit, and I turned down at 7760m in poor conditions. This experience didn't really help me to decide if I had the necessary strength to summit, so in 2006 I took the opportunity to return to the mountain, this time from the south, with the services of Henry Todd's Ice8000 organization.
That was another fine expedition, with even more learning, but sadly I turned back from 8650m in really good conditions ,due to persisting sleepiness and slow progress. I persuaded myself at the time that I had insufficient time to summit safely,a decision I have thought about a great deal since, of course. I now know I had more time than I realised, and I had descended in decent style too, so I have to say I've had considerable anguish subsequently about not pressing on that sunny day.

           Everest 2008...the final chance

After a period of reflection, I eventually decided to ask my long-suffering work partners for one more opportunity to try for the summit, in my 50th year, and with distinctly fading fitness. They kindly agreed, and here I am, both nervous and excited about trying to put everything I've learned in the mountains to good use for one big effort.
This time I will have three friends attempting it with me, again from the south, and again using Henry Todd's help.These are Ray Smith, Greg Roberts and Andre Zlattinger.
I met Ray in on the 2004 trip, and Greg was ready to try Everest in 2002, but became ill before departure and had to cancel. Andre subsequently tried from the north and turned down from high on the ridge, so you can see that we all have had our various disappointments with respect to this mountain. I'm certain that our mutual support throughout this next trip will help us all in one way or another, and hopefully increase our chances of success. I look forward to sharing their company. They will hopefully contribute to this site from time to time.

              Reflections on a dream

Having come so near to summiting Everest in my middle age, I now know that in my stronger, younger years I would probably have coped somewhat better on the mountain (though I couldn't have afforded to be there!), but those prime years have definitely gone for me, and I have to do what I can with my ailing body as it is now. It only ails in the sense that I have had a severe back problem over the last 2 years or more, with significant disc damage at three levels and recurrent pain and limited mobility throughout this period. This has inevitably reduced my capacity for hard training, indeed often for any training at all, and I have had to ponder on whether trying to summit one more time is likely to be,at best, a pointless exercise, and at worst, a foolish one. I certainly know that any successful bid will come by nurturing my frame up and down the hill, not by force.
I so wish that I'd completed this task of mine last time, so I could now be easing my thickening frame into more genteel activities suited to middle age, but I'm currently trapped between ambition and common sense. Time will tell if I have judged my decision correctly.

             Web-site journey

This very personal journey of mine is clearly of great interest to me, but after the events of 2006 I became aware that a good number of other people were interested in my efforts,including many of my abandoned patients! On discovering Paul and Fiona's excellent site subsequently, I became attracted to the idea of sharing this next trip in more detail than had been previously possible with the news updates of www.ice8000.com . I mostly imagined friends and family would be interested in my progress, but I now understand that there are many others who can vicariously enjoy the struggles of strangers like me, aided by the phenomenal power of the internet. Such is the draw of Everest still.

I can only hope that this journey of mine helps to inspire a few others to realise that very ordinary people can achieve quite extraordinary things if we put our minds to it. I hope anybody following the trip through with me will be able to share some of my hopes,dreams, fears,despair, and hopefully, joy.....at last, after 15 years of my life.

None of us can know how this phase of my journey will unfold, but we have a chance to find out together. I need luck above all, as we all do, but I hope to draw strength from your support, perhaps enough to get me that 200m beyond my previous high point.

Welcome to my dream world. Except I'm trying to make it real for once.

Messages

Good Luck...

A friend took my pic to Everest and scattered me to the elements two years ago! It's as close as I'll ever get..... so go do it this time! I'll be following with keen interest and everything crossed for you!

Welcome

Thank you, and welcome to my dream. It's good to have you back....!

Hi Mike....hope I haven't

Hi Mike....hope I haven't missed you already. I'm rooting for you all the way and will be watching your progress with interest.....and in awe!!! GOOD LUCK friend!XX

Last night home

I'm flying tomorrow morning, looking forward to my last night in my own bed for a good while. Thanks for your support. Still a few bits to do to finish off here, I'm looking forward to stopping for a while soon!

Thinking of you all

Hi there,
This is Ray Smith's sister Susan. Wishing you all the best. Keep safe.

Susan

You sound so relaxed

You sound so relaxed Mike........obviously very content in the environment!! Approximately when is your summit planned for?? Jacq.x

Best wishes from Canada

Hi Mike,
It's been fascinating to read your journal. I can remember chatting with you years ago about how you loved to hike and climb. So there you are....at the top of the world. Best wishes....I hope it all goes well and wish you all the best for a successful climb.
Pamela (long lost cousin!)

Don't know you but want to know of your climb

Hey, My name is Jennifer, am Tanners mom and I believe you have been with him for several months with Todd's grp?? Anyway, hope all is well, you are safe, summitted, etc. as the ice8000 website must have closed up shop as now info. Anyway, I hope I have the right Mike, know that Tanner summitted, is mentally and physically drained and am sure you are also. Those who run the websites should have kids; to be sensitive to updates for peace of mind!! If I have the right Mike or not, congradulations!!

No news yet about Mike

Hi Jennifer,
It's Paul Adler from MyEverest.com and I thought I 'd post a message here about what we know about Mike. I only know what is available on the Internet, and as far as I can tell there has been no news at all about Mike - where he is or if he summited or not. I believe the Mike was in a different group to your son Tanner. Tanner was in the second group and would have summited a day ahead of Mike.
I have been checking the weather conditions regularly over the past 24 hours, and Mike would have had some reasonable weather; more wind than ideal, but still not too bad. The wind is the most important factor. On the South Col it has been blowing at about 10-30 knots over this time. Because of the reduced air pressure up there (less than half that of sea level), the wind feels less, so 30 knots feels the same as 15 knots at sea level.
I know what it's like to get back to the South Col after climbing to the summit. I was extremely tired, both physically and mentally and I wasn't able to do an update until I got back down to C2. So hopefully Mike has safely made it to the top, or very close, has come back down to C4 and is resting up.
Paul Adler.

Eager for news of Mike!?

Hi Paul, many thanks for posting the note in reply to Jennifer. I am Mike's brother and am desperate to know if he is safe. I have scoured the web sites for news since his last posting at 14.02 UK time on Saturday and yours is the very first response.
I have contacted Ice8000.com with whom he was climbing and the last posting on their web site was 22 May stating that he, Greg and Ray were heading to Camp 2. Since that time nothing else has been posted.
We can only hope and pray that the situation is as you stated and that contact will be made soon.
Thank you for taking the time to give some news.
Norman & Jane Brennan

A post from a team climbing at the same time as Mike

No problem Norman. Just In case you haven't seen this, a friend sent me this post from a team who was climbing to the summit at the same time at Mike. http://www.themountainschool.com/blog/everest.html
They report that they great weather for the summit, so that's very good news. It's one thing to look at meteorological data, but another thing to actually hear from someone who was there. So I think we can be confident that he has had good weather.
There has been nothing reported about any incidents on the mountain, so that's also good news. Most likely scenario is that Mike is back at the South Col and very tired. It's very early in the morning in Nepal.
Paul.

Well done -third time lucky!

Mike -what a fantastic achievement. What can you do next to top this!!
Your journey has been an emotional one, and you made it- I can't tell you how pleased I am.
Thinking of you and wishing you a safe journey home.

Jules K x

Thanks

Hi Jules,
You may never get to check for this reply, but you can try telling me how pleased you are whenever you want!!!!
I'm home, and safe, and mostly in one piece.

Micheal Brennan

I was away for a week without internet access, so I kept wondering how you were doing .I hoped you were safe and ok.
Well, I`d just arrived home when my Ottawa family phoned with the great news !!! Imagine my G.P.has been to the summit of Mount Everest. Wow AMAZING!!! What a fantastic acheivement. I hope your ear improves soon. Take care and recover. Anne Carson-Rhodes